My Dumb Projects
Tuesday, May 03, 2005
Spartan Hoplite's Sword (Xiphos)
After reading Frank Miller's "300", I became interested in the ancient Spartans. I based my pattern on actual spartan swords from museum collections, not the horrible movie.
I cut out three 3mm sheets of plastic based on two photos of actual swords. Clamping them together, they still had too much flex. I got a piece of flat 3mm steel (3/4" wide) and cut out a channel in the inner layers.
I added two more shaped layers to build up what was described in my research as a "diamond profile". On retrospect, I should have used full blade width layers as the shaped ones caused gaps that had to be puttied later.
I used the long blade from my Swiss Army knife to shave a blade edge on the sword. Hold the knife's edge PERPENDICULAR to the surface of the plastic and you can shave the plastic into shape. This also works as a alternative to rough sanding.
Next comes the boring part where you fill all holes and imperfections with model putty. Be prepared to apply multiple coats and spend some time sanding.
The pommel was constructed by cutting elliptical disks of different sizes with a rectangular hole. The "cap" I made separately to make it easier to get a file into the hole.
The hand guard was constructed as a box which fit over cross members that were cut as part of the sword body.
The grips were cut out of 1/4" walnut and Dremel sanded to shape. Note the tabs at either end to tuck into the pommel and hand guard. I then used some stain to bring out the grain and seal the wood.
After painting, all the pieces were glued on completing my Spartan Hoplite Xiphos!
The final sword. ¶ 5:06 PM 5 comments
After reading Frank Miller's "300", I became interested in the ancient Spartans. I based my pattern on actual spartan swords from museum collections, not the horrible movie.
I cut out three 3mm sheets of plastic based on two photos of actual swords. Clamping them together, they still had too much flex. I got a piece of flat 3mm steel (3/4" wide) and cut out a channel in the inner layers.
I added two more shaped layers to build up what was described in my research as a "diamond profile". On retrospect, I should have used full blade width layers as the shaped ones caused gaps that had to be puttied later.
I used the long blade from my Swiss Army knife to shave a blade edge on the sword. Hold the knife's edge PERPENDICULAR to the surface of the plastic and you can shave the plastic into shape. This also works as a alternative to rough sanding.
Next comes the boring part where you fill all holes and imperfections with model putty. Be prepared to apply multiple coats and spend some time sanding.
The pommel was constructed by cutting elliptical disks of different sizes with a rectangular hole. The "cap" I made separately to make it easier to get a file into the hole.
The hand guard was constructed as a box which fit over cross members that were cut as part of the sword body.
The grips were cut out of 1/4" walnut and Dremel sanded to shape. Note the tabs at either end to tuck into the pommel and hand guard. I then used some stain to bring out the grain and seal the wood.
After painting, all the pieces were glued on completing my Spartan Hoplite Xiphos!
The final sword. ¶ 5:06 PM 5 comments
Monday, May 02, 2005
Sauron's Mace
This mace started as a quickie prop for my Sauron Halloween costume. The shaft is a cedar closet dowel, cut hexagonally with a hacksaw. The head piece and butt were pine discs of various diameters on a threaded rod. To get it done in time, I cut flat styrene blades and glued them to the head.
After the holidays, I decided (or was compelled by dark forces) to bring the mace up to spec. The blades were re-cut out of 3 sheets of 3 mm plastic laminated together. I used the Dremel sander to grind the bevels on the blades and modeling putty was used to build the raised dividing fins. The new blades were glued to the head with 2-part epoxy.
The grip ribs and spiked band (halfway up the shaft) are styrene. The hand guard was made with a pine disk and wood putty.
I added the "Black Tongue" runes to alternating facets of the shaft with craft "puffy paint".
The whole thing was painted with Testors Aluminum Spray Paint. For the weathered look, I applied a wash thinned-down black enamel paint.
Total build time: Approximately 30 hours
Total cost: $20 ¶ 12:46 AM 3 comments
After the holidays, I decided (or was compelled by dark forces) to bring the mace up to spec. The blades were re-cut out of 3 sheets of 3 mm plastic laminated together. I used the Dremel sander to grind the bevels on the blades and modeling putty was used to build the raised dividing fins. The new blades were glued to the head with 2-part epoxy.
The grip ribs and spiked band (halfway up the shaft) are styrene. The hand guard was made with a pine disk and wood putty.
I added the "Black Tongue" runes to alternating facets of the shaft with craft "puffy paint".
The whole thing was painted with Testors Aluminum Spray Paint. For the weathered look, I applied a wash thinned-down black enamel paint.
Total build time: Approximately 30 hours
Total cost: $20 ¶ 12:46 AM 3 comments
