tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-143325012024-03-13T12:42:55.449-07:00My Dumb ProjectsThese are all the dumb things I find myself obsessed with building when I SHOULD be doing something more productive. <p>As a kid I built lots of plastic model kits, never knowing that one day those skills would actually be of use.<p>
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</p>BlindSquirrelhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10493584866035484424noreply@blogger.comBlogger91125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-14332501.post-89975836818528161942010-03-04T15:39:00.002-07:002010-03-04T15:52:48.963-07:00New Prop Blog!!I have heard the cries of the iPhone crowd and have started a new blog that will take over from My Dumb Projects. <br /><br /><a href="http://www.blindsquirrelprops.blogspot.com">Blind Squirrel Props</a><br /><br />All the posts from here have been transferred as well as most of the comments. A few of the longer projects have been re-written to be one entry and irrelevant details have been omitted.<br /><br />On the new blog, I've made it easier to find old projects by categorizing the posts, adding a search window and listing archived projects by name instead of by date.<br /><br />For those who haven't noticed, I have a link to the right for my Twitter feed where I'll be showing daily progress on current projects (mistakes and all) and links for my prop-making friends. Be sure to check them out too!<br /><br />See ya over there!<div class="blogger-post-footer"><script type="text/javascript">
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I cut a channel for a temporary maple shaft in two pieces of bass wood, bolted them together.<br /><br /><img src="http://dualityentertainment.com/mike/Comm/Sunlightheart/03.jpg"><br /><br />The assembly was shaped on the lathe and then the pieces were removed to be glued to the final shaft. <br /><br /><img src="http://dualityentertainment.com/mike/Comm/Sunlightheart/04.jpg"><br /><br />I used a Dremel sander to shape the transition to the square shaft.<br /><br /><img src="http://dualityentertainment.com/mike/Comm/Sunlightheart/05.jpg"><br /><br />I used the same method to turn the three rings and then attached it to the shaft.<br /><br /><img src="http://dualityentertainment.com/mike/Comm/Sunlightheart/06.jpg"><br /><br />The final shaft grip.<br /><br /><img src="http://dualityentertainment.com/mike/Comm/Sunlightheart/07.jpg"><br /><br />I inserted a threaded rod into the end of the shaft to hold the tail parts. The arrowhead was cut from a solid piece of maple, the ball is a wooden drawer handle and the part under it was turned from dowel.<br /><br /><img src="http://dualityentertainment.com/mike/Comm/Sunlightheart/08.jpg"><br /><br />The arrowhead inserts were made from scraps of maple. The tail spike couldn't be glued to the shaft until these pieces were in place.<br /><br /><img src="http://dualityentertainment.com/mike/Comm/Sunlightheart/09.jpg"><br /><br />Before I attached it, I cut the details and panel lines into the arrowhead.<br /><br /><img src="http://dualityentertainment.com/mike/Comm/Sunlightheart/10.jpg"><br /><br />I cut the tail details from thin styrene.<br /><br /><img src="http://dualityentertainment.com/mike/Comm/Sunlightheart/11.jpg"><br /><br />The recessed areas on the lance head were made from styrene. I used Pepakura to work out the geometry.<br /><br /><img src="http://dualityentertainment.com/mike/Comm/Sunlightheart/12.jpg"><br /><br />I cut the profile of the head from a thick sheet of styrene. I cut a channel for the shaft to fit into.<br /><br /><img src="http://dualityentertainment.com/mike/Comm/Sunlightheart/13.jpg"><br /><br />I then used styrene to lock a flattened area of the shaft into place. The shaft will be removable for shipping.<br /><br /><img src="http://dualityentertainment.com/mike/Comm/Sunlightheart/14.jpg"><br /><br />I cut the recess polygons from 1/4" MDF and used styrene to make the diamond details.<br /><br /><img src="http://dualityentertainment.com/mike/Comm/Sunlightheart/15.jpg"><br /><br />After the polygons were made, it became obvious that the recesses were too deep. I re-made both sides to the proper depth.<br /><br /><img src="http://dualityentertainment.com/mike/Comm/Sunlightheart/16.jpg"><br /><br />I attached both sides to the profile.<br /><br /><img src="http://dualityentertainment.com/mike/Comm/Sunlightheart/17.jpg"><br /><br />I glued styrene side panels to the head.<br /><br /><img src="http://dualityentertainment.com/mike/Comm/Sunlightheart/18.jpg"><br /><br />I filled the interior with expanding foam to support the geometry while keeping it light.<br /><br /><img src="http://dualityentertainment.com/mike/Comm/Sunlightheart/19.jpg"><br /><br />I started shaping the foam at the back.<br /><br /><img src="http://dualityentertainment.com/mike/Comm/Sunlightheart/20.jpg"><br /><br />I covered the exposed foam with Bondo.<br /><br /><img src="http://dualityentertainment.com/mike/Comm/Sunlightheart/21.jpg"><br /><br />More Bondo to form the tip.<br /><br /><img src="http://dualityentertainment.com/mike/Comm/Sunlightheart/22.jpg"><br /><br />The thickness of the plastic threw off the Pepakura pattern so I got some distortion and misaligned edges. I was able to correct these flaws with more Bondo.<br /><br /><img src="http://dualityentertainment.com/mike/Comm/Sunlightheart/23.jpg"><br /><br />The head so far.<br /><br /><img src="http://dualityentertainment.com/mike/Comm/Sunlightheart/24.jpg"><br /><br />After looking at the reference material, I discovered that the tip need a knife edge rather than the point I had. I added Bondo to build up some thickness and then sanded a proper knife edge.<br /><br /><img src="http://dualityentertainment.com/mike/Comm/Sunlightheart/25.jpg"><br /><br />A quick primer coat shows the nearly completed head. <br /><br /><img src="http://dualityentertainment.com/mike/Comm/Sunlightheart/26.jpg"><br /><br />After all the minor seams and flaws were filled, I painted the head with a base coat of silver.<br /><br /><img src="http://dualityentertainment.com/mike/Comm/Sunlightheart/27.jpg"><br /><br />I masked and painted the color areas of the head.<br /><br /><img src="http://dualityentertainment.com/mike/Comm/Sunlightheart/28.jpg"><br /><br />I cut the zig-zag detail from thick styrene and glued them into the recesses.<br /><br /><img src="http://dualityentertainment.com/mike/Comm/Sunlightheart/29.jpg"><br /><br />For some reason the polygons at the other end no longer fit after the orange areas were glued in. I would have to remove 1/8" from each edge to make them fit properly.<br /><br /><img src="http://dualityentertainment.com/mike/Comm/Sunlightheart/30.jpg"><br /><br />The final assembled lance. It is over 5 feet long.<br /><br /><img src="http://dualityentertainment.com/mike/Comm/Sunlightheart/31.jpg"><br /><br />It ships disassembled and will be glued together by the client.<br /><br /><img src="http://dualityentertainment.com/mike/Comm/Sunlightheart/32.jpg"><br /><br />Detail of the finished tail spike.<br /><br /><img src="http://dualityentertainment.com/mike/Comm/Sunlightheart/33.jpg"><div class="blogger-post-footer"><script type="text/javascript">
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I cut the side profile on the table saw.<br /><br /><img src="http://dualityentertainment.com/mike/Comm/emperor/02.jpg"><br /><br />I then tapered the thickness of the blade using the belt sander.<br /><br /><img src="http://dualityentertainment.com/mike/Comm/emperor/03.jpg"><br /><br />I used a hand plane to bevel the edges of the blade.<br /><br /><img src="http://dualityentertainment.com/mike/Comm/emperor/04.jpg"><br /><br />I cut a slot in the top of the blade big enough to insert a 1/2" copper pipe which will serve as the handle.<br /><br /><img src="http://dualityentertainment.com/mike/Comm/emperor/05.jpg"><br /><br />I cut 1/2" MDF for the guard, running bolts through all the pieces to hold them together.<br /><br /><img src="http://dualityentertainment.com/mike/Comm/emperor/06.jpg"><br /><br />I cut the wings from 1/4" poplar and filled the gap between the MDF with more poplar.<br /><br /><img src="http://dualityentertainment.com/mike/Comm/emperor/07.jpg"><br /><br />The guard was getting too thick, so I re-cut it in 1/4" thick MDF.<br /><br /><img src="http://dualityentertainment.com/mike/Comm/emperor/08.jpg"><br /><br />Once everything was bolted and glued together, I puttied up the seams.<br /><br /><img src="http://dualityentertainment.com/mike/Comm/emperor/09.jpg"><br /><br />To further reduce thickness, I also re-cut the outer trim from 1/4" poplar. These also cover the bolts.<br /><br /><img src="http://dualityentertainment.com/mike/Comm/emperor/10.jpg"><br /><br />I routered out some shallow holes in the sides of the blade to hold the gems. I also cut some thin plastic to smooth out the bottom of the hole.<br /><br /><img src="http://dualityentertainment.com/mike/Comm/emperor/11.jpg"><br /><br />I made the blade gems using 1/4" acrylic, shaping it with a Dremel sanding drum.<br /><br /><img src="http://dualityentertainment.com/mike/Comm/emperor/12.jpg"><br /><br />After sanding, the gem was smoothed with a buffing wheel.<br /><br /><img src="http://dualityentertainment.com/mike/Comm/emperor/13.jpg"><br /><br />I cut trim from styrene and glued them to the holes.<br /><br /><img src="http://dualityentertainment.com/mike/Comm/emperor/14.jpg"><br /><br />The feathers on the wings were scribed using an Xacto knife.<br /><br /><img src="http://dualityentertainment.com/mike/Comm/emperor/15.jpg"><br /><br />The handle trim was made by heating and wrapping thin styrene strips.<br /><br /><img src="http://dualityentertainment.com/mike/Comm/emperor/16.jpg"><br /><br />Once it was wrapped around, it was trimmed flush. The ends were heated again and the soft plastic welds together.<br /><br /><img src="http://dualityentertainment.com/mike/Comm/emperor/17.jpg"><br /><br />The plastic trim was glued to the handle. <br /><br /><img src="http://dualityentertainment.com/mike/Comm/emperor/18.jpg"><br /><br />The pommel was a wooden drawer knob, secured with a threaded rod.<br /><br /><img src="http://dualityentertainment.com/mike/Comm/emperor/19.jpg"><br /><br />The hilt gems were cut from 1/4" red acrylic. The base was cut from thick styrene.<br /><br /><img src="http://dualityentertainment.com/mike/Comm/emperor/20.jpg"><br /><br />I glued mylar wrapping paper to the back of all the gems.<br /><br /><img src="http://dualityentertainment.com/mike/Comm/emperor/21.jpg"><br /><br />I painted the hilt in two gold tones.<br /><br /><img src="http://dualityentertainment.com/mike/Comm/emperor/22.jpg"><br /><br />When I got a shipping estimate, I found that the sword was too long to ship cross country for a reasonable price. I decided to cut the blade in half.<br /><br /><img src="http://dualityentertainment.com/mike/Comm/emperor/23.jpg"><br /><br />Fortunately there is a natural color split at the halfway point so the split wouldn't be too noticeable.<br /><br /><img src="http://dualityentertainment.com/mike/Comm/emperor/24.jpg"><br /><br />I drilled each end and glued an aluminum dowel into one side.<br /><br /><img src="http://dualityentertainment.com/mike/Comm/emperor/25.jpg"><br /><br />Back together! The client will epoxy it when he gets it.<br /><br /><img src="http://dualityentertainment.com/mike/Comm/emperor/26.jpg"><br /><br />The round beads were purchased and painted but I made the long beads from maple.<br /><br /><img src="http://dualityentertainment.com/mike/Comm/emperor/27.jpg"><br /><br />I glued some string into the end of the long bead and strung the round beads and grommet onto it.<br /><br /><img src="http://dualityentertainment.com/mike/Comm/emperor/28.jpg"><br /><br />I cut the sides of the scabbard from 3/4" MDF.<br /><br /><img src="http://dualityentertainment.com/mike/Comm/emperor/29.jpg"><br /><br />The top and bottom of the scabbard was made from 1/4" MDF. I glued in some fake suede lining into each side.<br /><br /><img src="http://dualityentertainment.com/mike/Comm/emperor/30.jpg"><br /><br />Once the sides were glued together, the MDF was sealed and the edges beveled.<br /><br /><img src="http://dualityentertainment.com/mike/Comm/emperor/31.jpg"><br /><br />I added two rings to the scabbard so that it could be worn from a belt.<br /><br /><img src="http://dualityentertainment.com/mike/Comm/emperor/32.jpg"><br /><br />I added styrene trim to the opening. I moved the trim away from the opening to protect the sword from getting scratched.<br /><br /><img src="http://dualityentertainment.com/mike/Comm/emperor/33.jpg"><br /><br />I added a heat formed styrene end cap to the scabbard.<br /><br /><img src="http://dualityentertainment.com/mike/Comm/emperor/34.jpg"><br /><br />The beads were glued to each side of the hilt.<br /><br /><img src="http://dualityentertainment.com/mike/Comm/emperor/35.jpg"><br /><br />The final hilt.<br /><br /><img src="http://dualityentertainment.com/mike/Comm/emperor/36.jpg"><br /><br />The finished sword in scabbard.<br /><br /><img src="http://dualityentertainment.com/mike/Comm/emperor/37.jpg"><br /><br />The sword outside the scabbard. The sword itself is over 5 feet long.<br /><br /><img src="http://dualityentertainment.com/mike/Comm/emperor/38.jpg"><div class="blogger-post-footer"><script type="text/javascript">
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The flat surface works much better than a round tooth pick.<br /><img src="http://dualityentertainment.com/mike/Tools/picks.jpg"><br /><br />The <a href="http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=10668">Contour Gauge</a> is a great tool for matching edges that have to fit together. It's especially helpful for organic shapes.<br /><img src="http://dualityentertainment.com/mike/Tools/contour.jpg"><br /><br />Mechanical Pencils always keep a nice sharp point. I get 3 packs at a Dollar store. At that price, it's almost not worth re-loading the lead when they run out (but I do anyway).<br /><img src="http://dualityentertainment.com/mike/Tools/pencil.jpg"><br /><br />I don't know if there's a big difference between <a href="http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=91769">Wood Glue</a> brands. I've used Tite Bond and Elmer's and both apply smoothly and grip within a minute.<br /><img src="http://dualityentertainment.com/mike/Tools/glue.jpg"><br /><br /><a href="http://www.hobby-lobby.com/zap_ca_thin_viscosity_1_2_oz._2880_prd1.htm">CA Glue</a> is commonly known as "Super Glue". It comes in various thicknesses: thicker glue for filling gaps and thinner for running down seams. I buy the smallest bottle available as they tend to dry out quickly. Pour some out on a piece of cardboard and apply with a toothpick.<br /><br /><img src="http://dualityentertainment.com/mike/Tools/ca.jpg"><br /><br />A <a href="http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=46924">Buffing Wheel</a> inserted in a drill press, hand drill or dremel tool can remove scratches from sanding. I use it mostly when smoothing acrylic gems.<br /><img src="http://dualityentertainment.com/mike/Tools/buff.jpg"><br /><br />I use painter's <a href="http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=65608">Blue Tape</a> for masking areas when painting. It makes a nice tight seal and doesn't peal up any paint it's covering. At least not yet.<br /><img src="http://dualityentertainment.com/mike/Tools/tape.jpg"><br /><br />In addition to sanding sponges, I like theses <a href="http://www.woodcraft.com/product.aspx?ProductID=145957&FamilyID=5237">Sanding pads</a> for smoothing round or organic shapes. It's good for tight areas too.<br /><img src="http://dualityentertainment.com/mike/Tools/sand.jpg"><br /><br />If you're doing any work with resins, it's good to have a <a href="http://www.shop.com/TIMER,DIGITAL(LUX,99MIN,59SEC)_Sells_As_1_Each-43321911-57222111-p+.xhtml?sourceid=298">Digital Timer</a> to keep track of cure times. I also use it to keep track of how long it's been since I glued Part A to Part B.<br /><img src="http://dualityentertainment.com/mike/Tools/timer.jpg"><br /><br />A holdover from when graphic design was done on a drafting table, the <a href="http://www.artstuff.net/alvin_drafting_brushes.htm">Drafting Brush</a> has second life dusting off my table, props and occasionally me.<br /><img src="http://dualityentertainment.com/mike/Tools/brush.jpg"><br /><br />I use a <a href="http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=38075 ">Hack Saw</a> for cutting anything to big or unwieldy for the bench tools. Great for metal, PVC, wood...anything that won't yell and run away.<br /><img src="http://dualityentertainment.com/mike/Tools/hack.jpg"><br /><br />A <a href="http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=94848">Coping Saw</a> is used when you need to make tighter turns than the hack saw will allow.<br /><img src="http://dualityentertainment.com/mike/Tools/coping.jpg"><br /><br />The <a href="http://www.widgetsupply.com/page/WS/PROD/jeweler-saw/SFG3-3805">Jeweler's Saw</a> is for even tight turns. Great for sheet metal and tubing. The blade snaps easily so saw carefully and prepare to replace the blade often.<br /><img src="http://dualityentertainment.com/mike/Tools/jewel.jpg"><br /><br />The <a href="http://www.widgetsupply.com/page/WS/PROD/hand-saw/XRM3-75320">Razor saw</a> usually comes with a little miter box so it makes trimming styrene and wood a breeze.<br /><img src="http://dualityentertainment.com/mike/Tools/razor.jpg"><br /><br />A <a href="http://www.acehardware.com/product/index.jsp?productId=1340384&cp=&sr=1&kw=shop+vacuum&origkw=shop+vacuum&pg=5&parentPage=search&searchId=41947951334">Shop Vacuum</a> is almost essential for cleaning up all your "work residue". Plus it can be used to power your vacuum table.<br /><img src="http://dualityentertainment.com/mike/Tools/vacuum.jpg"><br /><br />Another refugee from my drawing table, I still use a <a href="http://www.staples.com/office/supplies/StaplesProductDisplay?&storeId=10001&langId=-1&catalogId=10051&partNumber=242594&cm_mmc=GoogleBase-_-Shopping-_-Office_Supplies_%253E_Design_and_Drafting_-_-242594-977%2520110&ci_src=14110944&ci_sku=242594">Circle Template</a> for marking parts for cutting or gluing.<br /><img src="http://dualityentertainment.com/mike/Tools/template.jpg"><br /><br />I pick up Paper Plates at the dollar store and use them for mixing glue, Bondo or paint.<br /><img src="http://dualityentertainment.com/mike/Tools/plate.jpg"><br /><br />I'll add more items as I think of them. If you have any suggestions, be sure to leave them in the comments!<div class="blogger-post-footer"><script type="text/javascript">
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Why measure when you can just lay the part on the drawing to compare!<br /><img src="http://dualityentertainment.com/mike/Tools/AdobeIllus.jpg"><br /><br />For particularly complex forms or objects with layers, I'll do a virtual rototype in <a href="http://www.strata3d.com/">Strata 3D</a>. By working in 3D, I can work out all the depths before building<br /><img src="http://dualityentertainment.com/mike/Tools/strata.jpg"><br /><br />I used <a href="http://www.tamasoft.co.jp/pepakura-en/">Pepakura</a>, a paper modeling program to generate a pattern for building the Giant Kunai knife blade. Those angles were too much for my mathematically-challenged brain to handle so I let the software do it for me.<br /><img src="http://dualityentertainment.com/mike/Tools/pepakura.jpg"><br /><br /><a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Medium-density_fibreboard">MDF</a> (Medium Density Fiberboard) is available at any Home Depot or Lowes. It comes in 3/4" , 1/2", 1/4", 1/8" thickness, in sheets of 4' x 8'. MDF sands to a fine powder, has no grain, is easily shaped with dremel, hand tools or even utility knife. You can use any kind of glue on it and with an application of shellac, hardens to resist dents. Watch the cull bin for bargains! Why pay $15 for a piece that you can get for 51¢?<br /><img src="http://dualityentertainment.com/mike/Tools/MDF.jpg"><br /><br />Basswood is a fine grain wood usually used for carving. It is similar to balsa but much stronger. When turned on a lathe, you can quickly get a super smooth surface.<br /><br />Poplar is a nice fine grain hardwood, available at any Home Depot/Lowes. <br /><br />Maple is a super dense hardwood. I use it when something needs extra strength but I can't make it out of metal.<br /><br /><a href="http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/product.asp?catalog%5Fname=usplastic&category%5Fname=76&product%5Fid=3008">Styrene Plastic</a><br />The plastic that's used in model kits. You can buy small sheets at most hobby shops but I buy mine from a plastic supply house in town in big 4' x 8' sheets. Some sign shops carry it too.<br /><img src="http://dualityentertainment.com/mike/Tools/styrene.jpg"><br /><br />I've been getting all my casting materials from a local source. They carry the <a href="http://www.polytek.com/">Polytek</a> line. They are very reasonably priced, behave as advertised and have great tech support.<br /><img src="http://dualityentertainment.com/mike/Tools/resin.jpg"><br /><br />The other major brand is <a href="http://www.smooth-on.com/">Smooth-On</a>. I have nothing bad to say about any of their products that I've tried, I don't use them anymore because I don't have a local source.<br /><br />If you have a <a href="http://www.harborfreight.com/">Harbor Freight</a> in town, you probably know what a great resource it is. Low priced tools and supplies for the hobbyist.<br />Stuff I buy regularly:<br /><br />You can never have too many <a href="http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=92874">Clamps</a>. These cheap plastic clamps will eventually break but since they're so cheap, who cares?<br /><img src="http://dualityentertainment.com/mike/Tools/clamps.jpg"><br /><br /><a href="http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=37052">Rubber Gloves</a> are essential. At the least it keeps paint off your hands but they can also protect your prop from oils from your hands and protect your skin from the horrible glues and chemicals that we use. The nitrile are more expensive than latex but tougher.<br /><img src="http://dualityentertainment.com/mike/Tools/gloves.jpg"><br /><br />I hate sanding but I LOVE LOVE LOVE <a href="http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=90312">Sanding Sponges</a>. They last forever, work nicely on contours and prevent hand fatigue. The ones with the angled edge are nice for getting in all the nooks and crannies.<br /><img src="http://dualityentertainment.com/mike/Tools/sponge.jpg"><br /><br />I also hate cleaning <a href="http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=36956">Brushes</a> too. I buy a set of the small kids brushes, the 1/2 horse hair shop brushes and foam brushes every visit. Use it and toss it!<br /><img src="http://dualityentertainment.com/mike/Tools/brush.jpg"><br /><br />Mix as much <a href="http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=65047&xcamp=google&utm_source=googlebase&utm_medium=cpc&zmam=33951326&zmas=12&zmac=112&zmap=65047">2-Part Epoxy</a> as you need from the two-chambered syringe. Thick glue that stays where you put it and kicks in about three minutes. There's also a version that cures in 30 minutes but I can't hold something that long.<br /><img src="http://dualityentertainment.com/mike/Tools/epoxy.jpg"><br /><br /><a href="http://www.michaels.com/art/online/displayProductPage?productNum=cp0294">FolkArt Acrylics</a><br />are durable, lightfast acrylic paints. Tons of colors, cheap, fast drying, non-toxic, water cleanup. I'm done with the enamel rattle cans!<br /><img src="http://dualityentertainment.com/mike/Tools/folkart.jpg"><br /><br /><a href="http://www.acehardwaresuperstore.com/future-floor-wax-27-oz-p-3784.html?ref=42">Future Acrylic Floor Finish</a> is a great top coat that can be applied with airbrush or paintbrush. dries fast and smells good, too! It really makes metallic paint sing!<br /><img src="http://dualityentertainment.com/mike/Tools/future.jpg"><br /><br />The <a href="http://www.dremel.com/en-us/Tools/Pages/ToolDetail.aspx?pid=300+Series">Dremel</a> was my first power tool and it still gets used on a daily basis. My PPSh-41 was built almost exclusively with this tool.<br /><img src="http://dualityentertainment.com/mike/Tools/dremel.jpg"><br /><br />A <a href="http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=66001">Heat Gun</a> is the Poor Man's Vacuformer. Heat styrene until glossy and then shape over a form.<br /><img src="http://dualityentertainment.com/mike/Tools/heatgun.jpg"><br /><br />Use <a href="http://www.autozone.com/autozone/catalog/accessories/accProductDetails.jsp?subSubPartId=&itemIdentifier=167014_0_0_&brandName=Bondo&displayName=Body+Filler&categoryNValue=&sortType=&store=2705&fromWhere=&fromString=&itemId=prod61982&navValue=100877&skuDisplayName=1+gal.+Lightweight+Body+Filler&filterByKeyWord=&productId=167014&appQuestionText=Filler&categoryDisplayName=&parentId=cat30082&subPartId=prod61982">Bondo Body Filler</a> to fill big gaps, let it harden for a few minutes (until rubbery) and trim off excess with a knife. Sand smooth.<br /><img src="http://dualityentertainment.com/mike/Tools/filler.jpg"><br /><br /><a href="http://www.autozone.com/autozone/catalog/accessories/accProductDetails.jsp?displayName=BodyFiller&itemId=prod61982&navValue=100877&parentId=cat30082&productId=540155&fromString=search&itemIdentifier=540155_0_0_&filterByKeyWord=bondo&categoryNValue=100043&subSubPartId=&subPartId=prod61982&store=2705&skuDisplayName=3oz.ProfessionalGlazingandSpotPutty&categoryDisplayName=RepairandLift&_requestid=1128336">Bondo Spot Filler</a> is the same stuff as model putty at a fraction of the price. Fills smaller gaps for a smooth finish.<br /><img src="http://dualityentertainment.com/mike/Tools/putty.jpg"><br /><br />Besides something to clean your brushes, you can use <a href="http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productDetail&productId=206492-34228-CR.LT.M.64&lpage=none">Lacquer Thinner</a> to glue styrene together, apply it to a seam with brush or ruling pen and the liquid will run along the crack, MELTING the plastic together. Great for laminating plastic sheet into one solid piece. MUCH cheaper than Liquid Plastic Cement.<br /><img src="http://dualityentertainment.com/mike/Tools/thinner.jpg"><br /><br />The <a href="http://www.jerrysartarama.com/discount-art-supplies/Drawing-Tools/Oval-Ruling-Pen.htm">Ruling Pen</a> is an old school drafting tool is great for applying thinner to a seam or CA glue to a small area.<br /><img src="http://dualityentertainment.com/mike/Tools/ruling.jpg"><br /><br />I just use cheap plastic <a href="http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=7914">Calipers</a> but it does the trick. Great for measuring parts that fit together. An indispensable tool!<br /><img src="http://dualityentertainment.com/mike/Tools/caliper.jpg"><br /><br />By all means, wear a <a href="http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=44113">Respirator</a> to protect your lungs from dust (especially MDF), paint and glue fumes. <br /><img src="http://dualityentertainment.com/mike/Tools/respirator.jpg"><br /><br />By no means are these the best materials to use, but it's what I like. If you have something that works better, leave it in the comments!<div class="blogger-post-footer"><script type="text/javascript">
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I found Norse runes that closely matched the reference and carved them into the plastic.<br /><br /><img src="http://dualityentertainment.com/mike/Comm/Roto/06.jpg"><br /><br />For the pommel, I lathed a yoyo shape from basswood and then drilled out the base.<br /><br /><img src="http://dualityentertainment.com/mike/Comm/Roto/07.jpg"><br /><br />The pommel now fits perfectly on the handle.<br /><br /><img src="http://dualityentertainment.com/mike/Comm/Roto/08.jpg"><br /><br />I glued three pieces of MDF to form the guard, leaving a channel for the blade. It was rounded on the router table.<br /><br /><img src="http://dualityentertainment.com/mike/Comm/Roto/09.jpg"><br /><br />I used a series of files to carve grooves into the curve of the guard.<br /><br /><img src="http://dualityentertainment.com/mike/Comm/Roto/10.jpg"><br /><br />I glued the guard on to the blade and puttied up the seams. I also inserted screws to give the guard extra strength.<br /><br /><img src="http://dualityentertainment.com/mike/Comm/Roto/11.jpg"><br /><br />The "bird" shapes for the guard were cut from thick styrene.<br /><br /><img src="http://dualityentertainment.com/mike/Comm/Roto/12.jpg"><br /><br />I glued on the center rune strips.<br /><br /><img src="http://dualityentertainment.com/mike/Comm/Roto/13.jpg"><br /><br />To bridge the distance from the rune strip to the bird, I cut some MDF plugs.<br /><br /><img src="http://dualityentertainment.com/mike/Comm/Roto/14.jpg"><br /><br />Once the styrene was glued down, I used a heat gun to form the "feathers" around the curve.<br /><br /><img src="http://dualityentertainment.com/mike/Comm/Roto/15.jpg"><br /><br />Once both sides were shaped, I puttied up the seam.<br /><br /><img src="http://dualityentertainment.com/mike/Comm/Roto/16.jpg"><br /><br />A quick coat of primer to see progress.<br /><br /><img src="http://dualityentertainment.com/mike/Comm/Roto/17.jpg"><br /><br />I found some nice thick leather to wrap around the scabbard.<br /><br /><img src="http://dualityentertainment.com/mike/Comm/Roto/21.jpg"><br /><br />I made a scabbard box from 1/4" MDf and reinforced it with MDF in the inside corners.<br /><br /><img src="http://dualityentertainment.com/mike/Comm/Roto/22.jpg"><br /><br />I rounded it with the router.<br /><br /><img src="http://dualityentertainment.com/mike/Comm/Roto/23.jpg"><br /><br />The scabbard is to be carried across the back so I got a D-ring as an attachment.<br /><br /><img src="http://dualityentertainment.com/mike/Comm/Roto/18.jpg"><br /><br />I cut an aluminum strip and pounded it around a nail to form the loop.<br /><br /><img src="http://dualityentertainment.com/mike/Comm/Roto/19.jpg"><br /><br />I added the D-ring and riveted it to the MDF of the scabbard<br /><br /><img src="http://dualityentertainment.com/mike/Comm/Roto/20.jpg"><br /><br /><br />I glued black felt into the inside of the scabbard to protect the blade.<br /><br /><img src="http://dualityentertainment.com/mike/Comm/Roto/24.jpg"><br /><br />I glued the top on and sealed the seam with putty.<br /><br /><img src="http://dualityentertainment.com/mike/Comm/Roto/25.jpg"><br /><br />To get the rounded profile on the tip, I glued on pieces of 1/4" MDF and sanded them to shape.<br /><br /><img src="http://dualityentertainment.com/mike/Comm/Roto/26.jpg"><br /><br />The gap was filled with Bondo and sanded smooth.<br /><br /><img src="http://dualityentertainment.com/mike/Comm/Roto/27.jpg"><br /><br />I heat formed thick styrene plastic over the tip to form the end cap.<br /><br /><img src="http://dualityentertainment.com/mike/Comm/Roto/28.jpg"><br /><br />Once the imperfections were smoothed out, I cut the decorative slots with a band saw.<br /><br /><img src="http://dualityentertainment.com/mike/Comm/Roto/29.jpg"><br /><br />For the scabbard collar, I heat formed more plastic around the opening. The blue tape is protecting the felt interior from dust.<br /><br /><img src="http://dualityentertainment.com/mike/Comm/Roto/30.jpg"><br /><br />I sealed the seam and cut the curved base.<br /><br /><img src="http://dualityentertainment.com/mike/Comm/Roto/31.jpg"><br /><br />I glued the cap and center band (also heat formed plastic like collar) and gave it all a pretty coat of primer.<br /><br /><img src="http://dualityentertainment.com/mike/Comm/Roto/32.jpg"><br /><br />I painted the blade and top coated it with Future to protect the finish.<br /><br /><img src="http://dualityentertainment.com/mike/Comm/Roto/33.jpg"><br /><br />The scabbard and all the "hardware" was also painted. The red applied smoothly...any imperfections you see are from my dusty fingers. It wiped off before top coating.<br /><br /><img src="http://dualityentertainment.com/mike/Comm/Roto/34.jpg"><br /><br />I applied some extra felt on the top edge to protect the guard when it's put in the scabbard.<br /><br /><img src="http://dualityentertainment.com/mike/Comm/Roto/35.jpg"><br /><br />Once the collar was glued on, I cut the slot for the guard for a proper fit.<br /><br /><img src="http://dualityentertainment.com/mike/Comm/Roto/36.jpg"><br /><br />A test fit showing the sword inserted.<br /><br /><img src="http://dualityentertainment.com/mike/Comm/Roto/37.jpg"><br /><br />I cast some resin gems and glued them to both sides of the guard.<br /><br /><img src="http://dualityentertainment.com/mike/Comm/Roto/38.jpg"><br /><br />I glued the leather to the scabbard and used upholstery tacks to simulate rivets. I trimmed the nail so that it only went 1/8" into the scabbard surface.<br /><br /><img src="http://dualityentertainment.com/mike/Comm/Roto/39.jpg"><br /><br />The back of the wrap covers the ugly rivets!<br /><br /><img src="http://dualityentertainment.com/mike/Comm/Roto/40.jpg"><br /><br />The final sword!<br /><br /><img src="http://dualityentertainment.com/mike/Comm/Roto/41.jpg"><br /><br />Sword in scabbard.<br /><br /><img src="http://dualityentertainment.com/mike/Comm/Roto/42.jpg"><div class="blogger-post-footer"><script type="text/javascript">
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I drilled through the center to allow a 1/4" threaded rod.<br /><br /><img src="http://dualityentertainment.com/mike/Comm/Seth/02.jpg"><br /><br />Nuts were glued into the ring and then secured with threaded rod.<br /><br /><img src="http://dualityentertainment.com/mike/Comm/Seth/03.jpg"><br /><br />I made the base from basswood shaped on the lathe.<br /><br /><img src="http://dualityentertainment.com/mike/Comm/Seth/04.jpg"><br /><br />The rings that make the ball cage were cut from a 3" PVC pipe. <br /><br /><img src="http://dualityentertainment.com/mike/Comm/Seth/05.jpg"><br /><br />I notched the rings so that they fit together. <br /><br /><img src="http://dualityentertainment.com/mike/Comm/Seth/06.jpg"><br /><br />The center ball is a wooden post cap that I drilled to allow a 1/4" threaded rod. I covered the threads with aluminum tubing.<br /><br /><img src="http://dualityentertainment.com/mike/Comm/Seth/07.jpg"><br /><br />I cut slots for the rings in the base cone<br /><br /><img src="http://dualityentertainment.com/mike/Comm/Seth/08.jpg"><br /><br />The third ring in place.<br /><br /><img src="http://dualityentertainment.com/mike/Comm/Seth/09.jpg"><br /><br />The base parts glued together. I added a steel screw in the end to protect the wood.<br /><br /><img src="http://dualityentertainment.com/mike/Comm/Seth/10.jpg"><br /><br />There is a ring of spikes around the top of the base unit. I needed a 5" plastic ring so I found a large PVC connector that I could cut rings from.<br /><br /><img src="http://dualityentertainment.com/mike/Comm/Seth/11.jpg"><br /><br />I used brass tubes drilled into the wood to support the plastic ring.<br /><br /><img src="http://dualityentertainment.com/mike/Comm/Seth/12.jpg"><br /><br />The ring was held in place by wood dowels.<br /><br /><img src="http://dualityentertainment.com/mike/Comm/Seth/13.jpg"><br /><br />The blades were made from 1/4" oak with oak dowels glued to the side for support.<br /><br /><img src="http://dualityentertainment.com/mike/Comm/Seth/14.jpg"><br /><br />The blade base was shaped from blocks of pine and glued to each side.<br /><br /><img src="http://dualityentertainment.com/mike/Comm/Seth/15.jpg"><br /><br />The blade support arms were made from 1/2" threaded rod, bent to angle and then glued into the ring handle. Brass tubing covers threads where I could use them, Bondo will cover the rest. <br /><br /><img src="http://dualityentertainment.com/mike/Comm/Seth/16.jpg"><br /><br />Threaded nuts were inserted into the blade bases.<br /><br /><img src="http://dualityentertainment.com/mike/Comm/Seth/17.jpg"><br /><br />I lathed some wood cones that form the end of the support arm.<br /><br /><img src="http://dualityentertainment.com/mike/Comm/Seth/18.jpg"><br /><br />A base for the ring handle was made from pine with threaded inserts.<br /><br /><img src="http://dualityentertainment.com/mike/Comm/Seth/19.jpg"><br /><br />The completed upper assembly. The spikes on top were made from pine blocks.<br /><br /><img src="http://dualityentertainment.com/mike/Comm/Seth/20.jpg"><br /><br />The staff section was made from PVC with a wooden dowel inserted to support a threaded rod.<br /><br /><img src="http://dualityentertainment.com/mike/Comm/Seth/21.jpg"><br /><br />To ensure the safety of those within poking distance, I decided to make the spikes from urethane rubber. After shaping a wooden master, I used clay for a simple push mold.<br /><br /><img src="http://dualityentertainment.com/mike/Comm/Seth/22.jpg"><br /><br />All the rubber spikes for both weapons!<br /><br /><img src="http://dualityentertainment.com/mike/Comm/Seth/23.jpg"><br /><br />The rubber spikes glued to the ring handle. A light dusting of the same gold will make it blend in but will remain flexible and non-deadly.<br /><br /><img src="http://dualityentertainment.com/mike/Comm/Seth/24.jpg"><br /><br />The cage ball was painted with an iridescent red paint and the spikes were glued on.<br /><br /><img src="http://dualityentertainment.com/mike/Comm/Seth/25.jpg"><br /><br />The completed forks beside a 48" ruler.<br /><br /><img src="http://dualityentertainment.com/mike/Comm/Seth/26.jpg"><br /><br />Detail of the blades and handle. Rubber washers help keep the sections from loosening.<br /><br /><img src="http://dualityentertainment.com/mike/Comm/Seth/27.jpg"><br /><br />All the parts disassembled for easy transportation.<br /><br /><img src="http://dualityentertainment.com/mike/Comm/Seth/28.jpg"><div class="blogger-post-footer"><script type="text/javascript">
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When the tape was removed, I had inset markings!<br /><br /><img src="http://dualityentertainment.com/mike/Comm/Caster/2mask.jpg"><br /><br />I made a mold of the master and cast five copies in resin. There was some cleanup to do but they came out pretty clean.<br /><br /><img src="http://dualityentertainment.com/mike/Comm/Caster/3resin.jpg"><br /><br />I used a PVC pipe for the receiver and drilled a hole for the pivot arm section.<br /><br /><img src="http://dualityentertainment.com/mike/Comm/Caster/4drill.jpg"><br /><br />Luckily, a PVC connector was exactly the right size for the pivot...no trimming needed!<br /><br /><img src="http://dualityentertainment.com/mike/Comm/Caster/5pivot.jpg"><br /><br />I cut off the end cap and plugged it with MDF.<br /><br /><img src="http://dualityentertainment.com/mike/Comm/Caster/6cap.jpg"><br /><br />I cut the grip halves from 3/4" MDF.<br /><br /><img src="http://dualityentertainment.com/mike/Comm/Caster/7grip.jpg"><br /><br />I planned to use a wood screw combined with epoxy to attach the grip to the receiver.<br /><br /><img src="http://dualityentertainment.com/mike/Comm/Caster/8screw.jpg"><br /><br />I carved the recessed areas to the grip.<br /><br /><img src="http://dualityentertainment.com/mike/Comm/Caster/9carve.jpg"><br /><br />The slide was made from a section of PVC. I lathed an interior to the cap from MDF.<br /><br /><img src="http://dualityentertainment.com/mike/Comm/Caster/10slide.jpg"><br /><br />I cut a slot in the pivot PVC to allow the slide to move through.<br /><br /><img src="http://dualityentertainment.com/mike/Comm/Caster/11breech.jpg"><br /><br />The closed slide.<br /><br /><img src="http://dualityentertainment.com/mike/Comm/Caster/12closed.jpg"><br /><br />The trigger assembly was made from an acrylic rod with a sliding aluminum tube inserted. The trigger was made from laminated styrene sheets.<br /><br /><img src="http://dualityentertainment.com/mike/Comm/Caster/13trigger.jpg"><br /><br />I screwed and epoxied the grip to the receiver and capped the pivot with 1/4" MDF.<br /><br /><img src="http://dualityentertainment.com/mike/Comm/Caster/14caps.jpg"><br /><br />The trigger guard was made from 1/8" styrene with an aluminum rod connecting them. There is a compression spring glued behind the trigger so that it moves forward.<br /><br /><img src="http://dualityentertainment.com/mike/Comm/Caster/15guard.jpg"><br /><br />I turned the barrel out of Bass wood on the lathe.<br /><br /><img src="http://dualityentertainment.com/mike/Comm/Caster/16barrel.jpg"><br /><br />The pivot arms are made from stacked styrene sheets on a steel base.<br /><br /><img src="http://dualityentertainment.com/mike/Comm/Caster/17arm.jpg"><br /><br />The brackets that hold the other end of the trigger piston are made from 1/8" styrene. I made a small chisel to carve out the slots in the barrel.<br /><br /><img src="http://dualityentertainment.com/mike/Comm/Caster/18bracket.jpg"><br /><br />I glued on half-round styrene piping to the gun. The tight curves were heated first.<br /><br /><img src="http://dualityentertainment.com/mike/Comm/Caster/19piping.jpg"><br /><br />The piping completed and primered.<br /><br /><img src="http://dualityentertainment.com/mike/Comm/Caster/20piping.jpg"><br /><br />The sights were made from 1/8" acrylic rods glued to styrene blocks.<br /><br /><img src="http://dualityentertainment.com/mike/Comm/Caster/21sights.jpg"><br /><br />I heat formed styrene rods for the tubes on either side.<br /><br /><img src="http://dualityentertainment.com/mike/Comm/Caster/22tubes.jpg"><br /><br />The only gold color I could find that matched my screen caps was a Krylon Farm Equipment paint. It has a great industrial texture that makes it look like cast iron.<br /><br /><img src="http://dualityentertainment.com/mike/Comm/Caster/23paint.jpg"><br /><br />I back painted green acrylic and inserted it into the barrel.<br /><br /><img src="http://dualityentertainment.com/mike/Comm/Caster/24muzzle.jpg"><br /><br />The vents holes were cut from a thin sheet of styrene. It was glued over reflector tape....<br /><br /><img src="http://dualityentertainment.com/mike/Comm/Caster/25vents.jpg"><br /><br />...so that it would glow under a camera flash!<br /><br /><img src="http://dualityentertainment.com/mike/Comm/Caster/26vents.jpg"><br /><br />Here is the final assembled gun.<br /><br /><img src="http://dualityentertainment.com/mike/Comm/Caster/27final.jpg"><br /><br />The individual shells painted to show accurate specs. FYI, there are 20 different shells on the show.<br /><br /><img src="http://dualityentertainment.com/mike/Comm/Caster/28shells.jpg"><br /><br />Detail of the barrel.<br /><br /><img src="http://dualityentertainment.com/mike/Comm/Caster/29final.jpg"><br /><br />Detail of the receiver.<br /><br /><img src="http://dualityentertainment.com/mike/Comm/Caster/30final.jpg"><br /><br />The arm swivels down and the breach opens.<br /><br /><img src="http://dualityentertainment.com/mike/Comm/Caster/31final.jpg"><br /><br />Detail of the open breach.<br /><br /><img src="http://dualityentertainment.com/mike/Comm/Caster/32final.jpg"><br /><br />A shell inserted.<br /><br /><img src="http://dualityentertainment.com/mike/Comm/Caster/33final.jpg"><br /><br />The shell seated.<br /><br /><img src="http://dualityentertainment.com/mike/Comm/Caster/34final.jpg"><br /><br />I shot a short video of the gun loading in action<br /><br /><a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EsevTb2VAbI">Caster Shell Loading</a><div class="blogger-post-footer"><script type="text/javascript">
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Styrene was used to line the interior of the trigger cavity and poplar was used to make the trigger guard.<br /><img src="http://dualityentertainment.com/mike/Comm/Ritona/03.jpg"><br /><br />The muzzle block started as a 2" x 2" block of poplar.<br /><img src="http://dualityentertainment.com/mike/Comm/Ritona/04.jpg"><br /><br />I cut the angles on the table saw.<br /><img src="http://dualityentertainment.com/mike/Comm/Ritona/05.jpg"><br /><br />I threw it on the lathe and shaped the end.<br /><img src="http://dualityentertainment.com/mike/Comm/Ritona/06.jpg"><br /><br />I drilled 3/8" holes on each side for vents and drilled a 1/2" hole in the end of the muzzle.<br /><img src="http://dualityentertainment.com/mike/Comm/Ritona/07.jpg"><br /><br />The magazine sides were made from 1/4" MDF. I cut decorative slots in the sides with the table saw.<br /><img src="http://dualityentertainment.com/mike/Comm/Ritona/08.jpg"><br /><br />The complete magazine boxes.<br /><img src="http://dualityentertainment.com/mike/Comm/Ritona/09.jpg"><br /><br />MDF forms the box that holds the magazine.<br /><img src="http://dualityentertainment.com/mike/Comm/Ritona/10.jpg"><br /><br />I formed the magazine release by hammering aluminum sheet around a steel bar.<br /><img src="http://dualityentertainment.com/mike/Comm/Ritona/11.jpg"><br /><br />The shaped release lever, pivot pin and slots cut into the grip.<br /><img src="http://dualityentertainment.com/mike/Comm/Ritona/12.jpg"><br /><br />The release in place. A small compression spring keeps in pressed forward.<br /><img src="http://dualityentertainment.com/mike/Comm/Ritona/13.jpg"><br /><br />The body of the rifle is a 35" long piece of 1-1/2" PVC pipe. The rings at the rear sling loop and bipod were formed by cutting sections from a PVC connector.<br /><img src="http://dualityentertainment.com/mike/Comm/Ritona/14.jpg"><br /><br />The butt was made from a sheet of 1/4" MDF sandwiched by 3/4" MDF. I sanded the interior curve to meet the PVC body.<br /><img src="http://dualityentertainment.com/mike/Comm/Ritona/15.jpg"><br /><br />I drilled through the top of the PVC so I could access interior screws to hold the butt in place.<br /><img src="http://dualityentertainment.com/mike/Comm/Ritona/16.jpg"><br /><br />For the bolt slot, I drilled two holes and then cut between them, removing a section of the PVC.<br /><img src="http://dualityentertainment.com/mike/Comm/Ritona/17.jpg"><br /><br />I inserted a 1-1/4" PVC pipe into the 1-1/2" PVC body to form the bolt. For the handle, I used a socket screw and a bit of brass tubing to cover the exposed threads.<br /><img src="http://dualityentertainment.com/mike/Comm/Ritona/18.jpg"><br /><br />The assembled body so far.<br /><img src="http://dualityentertainment.com/mike/Comm/Ritona/19.jpg"><br /><br />To cover seams and make the butt more solid, I wrapped it with .04 styrene plastic.<br /><img src="http://dualityentertainment.com/mike/Comm/Ritona/20.jpg"><br /><br />I glued on some styrene strips along the edge. The bolt insert was capped off by a styrene plate.<br /><img src="http://dualityentertainment.com/mike/Comm/Ritona/21.jpg"><br /><br />The sight rail was glued and screwed on the top of the body tube, conveniently hiding the holes for attaching the grip assembly.<br /><img src="http://dualityentertainment.com/mike/Comm/Ritona/22.jpg"><br /><br />I found an inexpensive folding bipod at the Sports Authority but had to cut of a bit so it would fold up.<br /><img src="http://dualityentertainment.com/mike/Comm/Ritona/23.jpg"><br /><br />I used the supplied screws but attached the bipod from inside the barrel, through two access holes I drilled above them.<br /><img src="http://dualityentertainment.com/mike/Comm/Ritona/24.jpg"><br /><br />For the feet, I cut a square of steel and epoxied them to the legs.<br /><img src="http://dualityentertainment.com/mike/Comm/Ritona/25.jpg"><br /><br />I cut panels from sheet aluminum and attached them with pop rivets to the legs.<br /><img src="http://dualityentertainment.com/mike/Comm/Ritona/26.jpg"><br /><br />The completed bipod.<br /><img src="http://dualityentertainment.com/mike/Comm/Ritona/27.jpg"><br /><br />The bipod folded up.<br /><img src="http://dualityentertainment.com/mike/Comm/Ritona/28.jpg"><br /><br />For the barrel I used a 1" oak dowel. The fit wasn't tight so I used a section of PVC to act as a spacer. The slot at the bottom allows it to pass by the bipod screws.<br /><img src="http://dualityentertainment.com/mike/Comm/Ritona/29.jpg"><br /><br />Once inserted, it's held in place by two screws that use the bipod access holes.<br /><img src="http://dualityentertainment.com/mike/Comm/Ritona/30.jpg"><br /><br />I bought a set of sling mounts that screw into the PVC rings on the body and the barrel.<br /><img src="http://dualityentertainment.com/mike/Comm/Ritona/31.jpg"><br /><br />The scope was made from PVC (front and rear sections), wooden dowel, lathed wooden cones and MDF end caps.<br /><img src="http://dualityentertainment.com/mike/Comm/Ritona/32.jpg"><br /><br />I was able to get lenses the perfect size from a Dollar Store insect viewer. The front lens was the unmodified "viewing" lens and the rear lens was made from the enclosed magnifying glass.<br /><img src="http://dualityentertainment.com/mike/Comm/Ritona/33.jpg"><br /><br />The sight adjustment knobs were cut from a 1" dowel.<br /><img src="http://dualityentertainment.com/mike/Comm/Ritona/34.jpg"><br /><br />I cut posts from brass tubing that will also hide the knob attaching screw.<br /><img src="http://dualityentertainment.com/mike/Comm/Ritona/35.jpg"><br /><br />The final knobs.<br /><img src="http://dualityentertainment.com/mike/Comm/Ritona/36.jpg"><br /><br />I cut the front and rear scope mount out of 1/4" poplar. <br /><img src="http://dualityentertainment.com/mike/Comm/Ritona/37.jpg"><br /><br />I cut each in half and inserted long bolts to attach them. The bottom bolt goes through the rail.<br /><img src="http://dualityentertainment.com/mike/Comm/Ritona/38.jpg"><br /><br />The final assembled rifle with a coat of primer (per client's request).<br /><img src="http://dualityentertainment.com/mike/Comm/Ritona/39.jpg"><br /><br />The rifle is a massive 73" long!<br /><img src="http://dualityentertainment.com/mike/Comm/Ritona/40.jpg"><br /><br /><img src="http://dualityentertainment.com/mike/Comm/Ritona/41.jpg"><br /><br />Detail of the scope. I forgot to add the lens on the small range finder.<br /><img src="http://dualityentertainment.com/mike/Comm/Ritona/42.jpg"><br /><br />The folded bipod with added rubber feet.<br /><img src="http://dualityentertainment.com/mike/Comm/Ritona/43.jpg"><br /><br />The magazine is an open box so you have someplace to hide your weed...er...keys and ID.<br /><img src="http://dualityentertainment.com/mike/Comm/Ritona/44.jpg"><div class="blogger-post-footer"><script type="text/javascript">
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